About Artificial Flies in Fly Fishing

Fly Fishing Flies: Seasonal Patterns and Sizing Guide

Artificial flies come in various sizes, from very tiny ones right up to the scale to large ones, and they are governed by measurements which your fishing tackle dealer knows very well. Size 8 is a large one and they come down In size as the numbers go up. Size 10 is smaller, size 12 smaller still, and so on.

Small Flies do well on bright spring or summer days; larger flies are needed in flood waters, and if you are fishing at sunset into the night you will need what the Scots term ’ the big, blacknight fleas ‘. Another generality is that in the north of Scotland the loch trout go for larger, bushier-dressed flies, while the small, sparse ones are more successful further south.

Popular Fly Patterns by Season

Spring calls for balanced attractors like the Royal Wulff, which combines visibility with a tough hackle, and beadhead nymphs that mimic hatching stones. Summer is prime for Hopper patterns and High-Stick Elk Hair Caddis, which stay afloat on warm, bright days; Copper John nymphs also shine when trout feed heavily below. Fall favors slender nymphs and streamers—think Pheasant Tail or Black Woolly Bugger—matching the abundance of emerging insects and baitfish. Winter demands subtlety; small soft hackles, Hare’s Ear light winged flies, and micro nymphs in muted colors help despite sluggish trout. Rotate a few reliable patterns per season, adjusting size/color to local hatches and water clarity, so your fly box stays focused and effective year-round.

Dry-fly fishing calls for much more fastidious care in the selection of the fly. Indeed, most dry-fly anglers are obsessive about that. We don’t blame them. The whole technique calls for great accuracy and cunning in everything, and we often fish with a dry-fly man who actually catches flies from above the surface of the water in a little gauze net.

He than examines them carefully to see the type he endeavours to match it as nearly as possible from his voluminous fly box.

Matching the Hatch Technique

Matching the hatch starts with keen observation: note active insects on the water, their size, shape, and behavior (bubbling rises, swirls, or clinging to stones). Carry a small magnifier or hatch chart pocket guide, and keep a log of common insects by month. Choose a fly that mirrors the dominant bug in size, profile, and color—if midges dominate, downsize and drop the color to subtle grey or olive. Scout cues such as surface tension changes, trapped insects, or nearby vegetation where bugs rest. Adjust presentation by matching drift speed and angle; use a dry-dropper combo or dead-drift nymph to imitate naturals. Continually reassess—if fish refuse, try a slight size change or add a tiny flash bead for attraction.

Making Your Own Flies

The real culmination of the sport, however, is if you decide to make your own flies. The study of fly life, and the emulation of real insects on the water by fashioning them artificially, is now so much an enjoyable winter hobby for dry-fly trout anglers that it has almost taken over from the fishing itself! In most communities, fly-tying evening classes are offered at very moderate cost.

Common Materials Used in Fly Tying

Rooster hackle remains a staple thanks to its stiffness and good flow, while softer feathers like CDC or marabou offer lifelike pulsing in dries and emergers. Rabbit strip provides excellent dubbing for nymphs and streamers, giving bulk without weight; it works well in patterns like a Zonker. Threads in differing deniers let beginners build bodies, tails, and secure materials with minimal bulk—use a 6/0 nylon or polyester for most trout flies. Synthetic fibers such as UV dubbing, krystal flash, or foam enable bright flashes, buoyant bodies, or durable wing cases. Choose a palette of natural browns, olive greens, and flash colors for versatility, and keep a few bright accent beads or dubbings to emulate active bugs. Always work cleanly, trimming excess to keep flies balanced.

Categories of Flies

There are three main categories of fly. First there is the representative type, which are designed to look like one particular insect. Second, there are suggestive flies, which are designed in all colours to meet different conditions and different times. Thirdly there are attractors flies which, as the name suggests, simply attract the trout, although they are not necessarily replicas of real insects. Any guidance for the beginner about which flies he should use on a particular water can never be short or consice. There is simply no hard-and-fast rulling, because conditions on a water can change hour by hour ; the trout’s feeding habits can change even more rapidly and -to make matters even more complex – the size and type of flies which catch trout one day will catching nothing the next.

However, here are some general observations which will be helpful for a beginner:

• Examples of ‘attractor’ type flies are the Kingfisher Butcher, Peter Ross and the Worm Fly.
• Fishing rough water or in a strong wind on a lake requires larger flies – say size 8. Calm, quiet water requires smaller flies and if trout are seen feeding, then flies as small as 16 can be used.
• If the water is cold the fly should be fished deeper and slower it should also be larger than that used in warm water.
• Flies with a silver body such as the Butcher do well early in the season.
• If you are fishing wet-fly with three flies on the cast, consider using a winged fly on the tail, a spider pattern as the middle dropper and a Palmer on the top dropper.
• There are no undisputed ’experts’ on the selection of flies for a river or a lake. Trouth often take the ‘wrong’ fly if it is presented properly. And the reverse is the case, too. The best guidance is experience and trial and error.

Fly Storage and Maintenance Tips

Organize flies by type (dry, nymph, streamer) and size, using foam or magnetic boxes that seal tightly to avoid tangling. Choose foam boxes for the tops of dry flies or thin-nymph legs, and waterproof designs with snap closures for streamers. Slip silica packets into storage boxes to soak up moisture and prevent rusting on hooks. Clean flies after each trip by drying them gently with a towel, then laying them out to air before reboxing; moisture invites mold and dulls feathers. Rotate fly stock, especially after using heavily soaked patterns, to keep materials flexible. Inspect hooks for corrosion and replace damaged flies rather than jamming them back into the box. A tidy system helps you grab the right fly fast and keeps materials long-lived.

Common Beginner Mistakes to Avoid

Avoid choosing a fly that’s way too big or flashy for the target insect—start with a general hatch size (e.g., #14) and adjust based on local hatches. Watch for poor drift by focusing on leader length, tippet material, and current speed; use lighter leaders and longer drifts when fish are picky. Don’t neglect your leader setup—an abrupt transition from kilo to 4X causes drag, so taper gradually and trim frayed sections. Resist overloading the line with heavy fly combos; most trout prefer a single fly that lands softly. Fight the instinct to continually strip; brief drifts with natural movement often entice cautious fish. Finally, keep casts quiet and precise—splashy presentations scare fish, especially in clear, calm water.