There are many factors to take into account when you arrive at a venue for a lure fishing session. You need to try and think like the predator you are targeting, so as to work out where the fish is likely to be on that particular day, at what depth it might be and what sort of lure will trigger the fish into feeding.
Weather, water clarity, time of year, light conditions and natural features all play a big part in selecting the right lure. And even if you get that choice right, you will then got to work the lure in such a way that the fish will be tempted to take it.
Understanding predatory fish behavior transforms lure fishing from random casting to strategic hunting. Every element of your approach should be deliberate and based on predator psychology.
This is the most important factor of all to consider before you even start fishing. With lure fishing you are relying almost entirely on the predator’s vision to get a take.
It is best to restrict your lure fishing for clear water venues. If you know there are big predators in a venue which is always colored up, fish using a deadbait.
Water clarity changes throughout the season and even day to day. Heavy rains muddy the water, while calm periods allow sediment to settle.
In stained water, predators rely more on vibration and lateral line senses. While lures can still work, success rates drop dramatically compared to clear conditions.
Test water visibility by lowering a white lure into the water. If you can see it clearly at 3-4 feet depth, conditions are good for lure fishing.
Algae blooms reduce clarity during warm months. These often occur after periods of hot, calm weather when nutrient levels are high.
This depends entirely on the prevailing light conditions. On dull days, fluorescent lures, such as oranges, greens and yellows, are the best choice.
On bright days, shiny silver, copper and bronze patterns will reflect the light beautifully and should be your choice. Patterns painted on the flanks of the lure can play a significant part if you are fishing in shallow, clear water, and my favorite lures are those which are adorned with a striped green and black pattern that imitates a small perch.
However, if you are fishing in deep water, pattern and color are far less important as the fish will be striking from below the lure at what appears to them as just a black silhouette. Understanding this principle saves you from carrying dozens of lure colors unnecessarily.
Water color also influences lure selection. In tea-stained water, dark colors like black, purple, and dark blue create better silhouettes than bright colors.
Contrast matters more than specific colors. Your lure needs to stand out against the background, whether that’s dark water, sandy bottom, or bright sky.
UV-reflective lures have gained popularity in recent years. Fish can see UV wavelengths that humans cannot, potentially making these lures more visible in certain conditions.
On most venues predators observe set feeding times. First and last light are classic times, but there will also be times during the day when the predators feed, perhaps for only an hour.
Take note of when you catch fish, and then plan subsequent sessions to coincide with these times. Keeping a fishing journal with conditions, times, and catch data reveals patterns that improve future success.
The time of year is also important. Generally speaking, predators will be more active in summer and that is when the best lure fishing is to be enjoyed.
However, you can also catch fish in colder water. In winter, the predatory fish are likely to have followed their prey into the deeper parts of the water where it is lightly warmer, and because the fish are not very active at this time of the year, you will need to work your lure slow and deep.
Barometric pressure affects fish feeding behavior. Falling pressure often triggers feeding frenzies, while rapidly rising pressure after a front passes can shut down fishing completely.
Moon phases influence predator activity, especially in tidal waters. Full and new moons create stronger tides that concentrate baitfish and activate predators.
Wind direction and speed matter more than many anglers realize. Wind pushes baitfish against structure, and predators position themselves accordingly.
Overcast days often produce better lure fishing than bright, sunny conditions. Cloud cover makes predators more confident to hunt in shallow water and reduces line visibility.
A predatory fish is constantly on the look-out for any easy meal. To a pike, bass, perch, chub or zander, life is all about maximum reward for minimum effort, and the last thing they want to do is chase after fit, agile young fish all day long.
To such fish an easy meal comes in the shape of an injured, dying or diseased fish which cannot easily escape capture, and that is exactly what you are trying to imitate when you retrieve your lure. Although most lures do have their own in-built action, lure fishing is certainly not just a case of casting out and reeling mechanically back in.
You need to vary the speed of your lure, stop and start the retrieve, try very fast spurts followed by very slow pauses, and generally experiment with your technique until you start getting takes. Different species respond to different retrieve styles, and even the same species may prefer different actions on different days.
Predators hunt using ambush tactics around structure. They position themselves where they can explode on passing prey with minimal energy expenditure.
Current breaks, weed edges, drop-offs, and submerged timber all concentrate predators. Cast your lure beyond these features and retrieve it through the strike zone.
Predators have feeding windows triggered by baitfish movement. When prey fish become active, predators capitalize on the opportunity.
Although most lures do have their own in-built action, lure fishing is certainly not just a case of casting out and reeling mechanically back in. You need to vary the speed of your lure, stop and start the retrieve, try very fast spurts followed by very slow pauses, and generally experiment with your technique until you start getting takes.
The pause is often when strikes occur. Predators track the lure during retrieval, then attack when it stops or changes direction.
Twitching the rod tip adds erratic motion that triggers reaction strikes. This works particularly well with soft plastic lures and jerkbaits.
Burning the lure creates a fleeing baitfish illusion. Fast retrieves work well when predators are actively feeding and aggressive.
Slow rolling allows lures to maintain depth while covering water efficiently. This technique excels for suspended fish and cold water conditions.
The yo-yo retrieve creates vertical motion that imitates struggling baitfish. Drop the lure, let it fall on slack line, then retrieve and repeat.
Sinking plugs, spinners and spoons can be worked at all depths by using the countdown method. You simply cast in, and imagine the lure sinking at, say, 1ft (30cm) per second.
Your first few casts might be a countdown of three seconds, working the lure 3ft (90cm) deep. You can then work to a countdown of five (5ft/1.5m), seven (7ft/2.1m) and so on.
When you finally get a take, you may well have found the feeding depth for that day and you may then get one take after another. If you are prepared to take the risk of letting the lure sink to the bottom at each swim, you can map out any changes in depth and build up a mental picture of what the venue is like under the water.
This systematic approach eliminates guesswork and helps you understand the underwater topography. Mental mapping improves with each visit to a venue.
Different lure weights sink at different rates. Knowing your lure’s sink rate allows precise depth control.
Mark your line with permanent marker at specific intervals. This creates a visual reference for counting depth accurately.
Predators like to hide in natural features, such as reeds, weed beds, lilies and sunken trees, and to pounce on any unsuspecting prey fish as it passes their lair. Therefore you should try to work the lure as close as possible to any such features that you are able to cast to.
Weedless lure designs allow fishing directly in heavy cover where predators hide. Texas-rigged soft plastics and weedless spoons excel in these situations.
Rocky points, underwater humps, and channel edges concentrate predators and baitfish. These transition zones are prime lure fishing locations.
Docks, pilings, and bridge supports provide shade and ambush points. Cast parallel to these structures for maximum time in the strike zone.
Riprap banks and rocky shorelines hold crayfish and baitfish. Predators patrol these areas, especially during low-light periods.
Submerged vegetation creates oxygen-rich zones that attract baitfish. The edges where weeds meet open water are particularly productive.
Use shiny silver, copper or bronze on sunny days when they will reflect the sunlight, and brightly colored fluorescent lures when the sky is overcast.
Pay attention to your line during retrieves. Watching your line can reveal strikes that you don’t feel, especially with soft plastic lures.
Sharp hooks are critical for lure fishing success. Check hook points regularly and replace or sharpen hooks that become dull.
Vary casting angles to the same structure. Predators may ignore lures approaching from one direction but strike from another.
Crankbaits dive to specific depths and create vibration and flash. Start with medium-diving crankbaits that run 4-8 feet deep.
Spinnerbaits work through cover effectively and create flash and vibration. These versatile lures catch multiple species in various conditions.
Soft plastic worms and creature baits offer realistic action. Rigged Texas-style, they’re nearly weedless and extremely effective.
Topwater lures create surface disturbance that triggers explosive strikes. Nothing beats the excitement of a surface strike.
Jigs are versatile bottom-contact lures that work year-round. Tip them with trailers for added action and attraction.
Spoons flutter on the fall, imitating dying baitfish. These simple lures have caught fish for over a century.
Bigger lures aren’t always better. Match lure size to the predominant baitfish size in your water.
When baitfish are small, downsize your lure. Predators become selective feeders when abundant small prey is available.
Larger lures work well in stained water or when targeting trophy fish. Big baits catch big fish by filtering out smaller predators.
Experiment with different sizes when fishing slows. Sometimes a dramatic size change triggers strikes when nothing else works.
Medium to medium-heavy rods handle most lure fishing situations. Length depends on casting distance needs and fishing environment.
Longer rods (7-8 feet) provide better casting distance and leverage for hooksets. Shorter rods excel in tight quarters.
Spinning reels suit beginners because they’re easy to use and versatile. Baitcasting reels offer better control but require practice.
Line choice affects lure performance. Monofilament provides stretch and forgiveness, fluorocarbon offers invisibility, and braid delivers sensitivity and strength.
Match line strength to lure size and target species. Light line casts light lures farther but limits you with large fish.
Current breaks indicate where predators wait for food to come to them. Fish the calm water immediately downstream of obstacles.
Color changes in water suggest depth transitions or current convergences. These areas concentrate baitfish and predators.
Surface disturbance reveals feeding activity. Birds diving and baitfish jumping indicate active predators below.
Shade lines create ambush zones, especially during bright conditions. Fish the transition between light and shadow.
Temperature breaks concentrate fish. Cool water entering warm lakes or warm discharge areas in cold weather attract both prey and predators.
Spring fishing focuses on shallow water as predators move to spawning areas. Use slow presentations in cold water.
Summer patterns shift to early morning, late evening, and deeper structure during midday. Topwater fishing peaks during this season.
Fall fishing can be exceptional as predators feed heavily before winter. Match lure size to fattened baitfish.
Winter slows predator metabolism, requiring downsized lures and painfully slow retrieves. Focus on deep structure and the warmest water available.
Success in lure fishing builds through experience and observation. Every outing teaches something about fish behavior and lure effectiveness.
Start with versatile lures that work in multiple situations. Expand your collection as you identify specific needs.
Watch experienced anglers and learn from their techniques. Many successful lure anglers gladly share knowledge with eager beginners.
Keep experimenting even when one technique is working. Understanding multiple approaches makes you adaptable to changing conditions.
Lure fishing for beginners offers an exciting, active approach to angling. Unlike passive bait fishing, lure fishing keeps you engaged and mobile.
Master the fundamentals of lure color, retrieval techniques, and predator behavior. These core skills translate across species and venues.
Don’t become overwhelmed by the vast array of available lures. Start with a small selection of proven patterns and expand as you gain experience.
Pay attention to environmental factors like water clarity, light conditions, and time of day. Matching your approach to conditions dramatically improves success.
Remember that lure fishing involves presenting an artificial bait that predators must mistake for real prey. Every cast is an opportunity to learn what triggers strikes and what doesn’t.
Persistence and observation will transform you from a beginner into a skilled lure angler. The satisfaction of deceiving a predator with an artificial lure creates addiction that lasts a lifetime.
| Lure | Why It Works | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Rapala Original Floater F07 | The world’s best-selling fishing lure — lifelike wobble, works on every species | ~$9 |
| Berkley Gulp! Alive! Nightcrawlers | Scented soft bait that often out-fishes live worms | ~$10 |
| Gary Yamamoto Senko 5" | Texas-rig weedless and let it sink — the wiggling fall does the work | ~$9 |
| Arbogast Jitterbug | Easiest topwater lure on the market — slow retrieve, irresistible gurgling action | ~$10 |
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