Legends of Lake Murray: The Murray is Australia’s biggest river, despite the fact that it’s a baby compared to the Nile, the Amazon, and countless European and Asian waterways. The Murray rises in the Snowy Mountains – also not particularly Earth-shattering as far as mountain ranges go – and then flows west and forms the border of New South Wales and Victoria.
The Darling system comes down from Queensland and flows through the semi-arid bits of New South Wales – Brewarrina, Bourke, Wilcannia, Menindee – before joining the Murray at Wentworth. This confluence creates one of Australia’s most significant waterways and has been crucial to the continent’s settlement and agricultural development.
The Murray-Darling Basin occasionally drains to the sea – just east of Adelaide in South Australia. But in dry years when water fails to make it to the river mouth there’s plenty of controversy regarding why there should be water in the lower reaches of the river.
This is where political map lines (states) and science map lines (drainage basins) don’t line up, and it’s where the trouble starts, for this system covers parts of four states and includes the Australian Capital Territory: it doesn’t take Einstein to work out that if you live at the bottom of the Basin (South Australia) it’s likely that there’ll be less water than there is at the top (Queensland or the New South Wales highlands), because people need it for everything from growing food to generating electricity.
The Murray-Darling Basin (MDB) is particularly interesting from a social and economic point of view because it’s where much of Australia’s rural development has occurred, and also because it’s literally just over the hill (Great Dividing Range) from the east coast, which is where the vast majority of the population lives. Consequently, the meat and grain and wine and fruit that Australians consume as they lazily watch the Pacific drift by is frequently grown on or in the soils within the Basin, and has been ever since Blaxland, Wentworth and Lawson first bush-bashed their way across Mount Victoria.
A great number of quintessentially Australian things therefore originate in or from this large area, from sheep grazing to cereal cropping to bushrangers, and in many cases when Australians think of the bush, they probably think of a romanticised bit of the MDB that includes a few sheep hanging around a section of river, the odd eucalypt, plenty of grass, a kookaburra in the eucalypt…you get the idea. This romanticized image belies the complex ecological and social challenges the region faces today.
Beneath the thin veneer of loveliness and tranquillity, however, it’s become obvious that the Murray-Darling Basin is in poor environmental nick. So, along with all the happy rural connotations, it is now known as the spot where Minister Penny Wong bought an irrigation farm (Toorale) up near Bourke so that the water could go back to the river rather than into big storages; where the biggest irrigation property of them all, Cubbie, is almost always in the news; and where the conflicting interests and/or wobbly alliances of farmers, conservationists and governments become big, convoluted issues that seem to have no solution.
Way way back, of course, it wasn’t quite as complicated. About 500,000 years ago (give or take), a massive lake existed in south-eastern Australia.
It was called Lake Bungunnia, and stretched from Menindee down to Mildura and then south and west nearly to Adelaide. Think of those big meandering red cliffs on the Murray down in South Australia and you’re in Bungunnia country.
Back then, inland Australia was a lot wetter. The climate patterns that created Lake Bungunnia supported lush vegetation and diverse wildlife impossible to imagine in today’s semi-arid landscape.
Lake Bungunnia was huge, and would have facilitated colonisation of most of the area covered by the current Murray-Darling Basin rivers by a common suite of fish species and other aquatic creatures like turtles and crayfish. This ancient lake essentially acted as a distribution hub, allowing aquatic species to spread throughout what would eventually become separate river systems.
Consequently, with a few local variations, the native species we find today in the Murray we also find in the Murrumbidgee, the Lachlan, the Macquarie and so forth, and it’d be a fair bet that similar species swam about in Bungunnia. The genetic similarity among these populations confirms their common origin in this massive ancient waterway.
We’re not entirely sure what happened between the heyday of Bungunnia and the present but there are a few clues. Our biggest mammals, such as diprotodons and giant kangaroos, became extinct at around the same time – give or take a few thousand years – as humans first moved to Australia.
It seems highly likely that the arrival of a new and efficient superomnivore might have heralded the beginning of the end of the megafauna, but it’s interesting that some of our more arid-adapted large mammals, such as red and grey kangaroos, have hung on and either become or remained the dry-country specialists they are today. These survivors possessed traits that allowed them to cope with the changing climate and new predation pressures.
Nevertheless, out-size goannas, pythons and land crocodiles drifted into extinction, so it’s tempting to think that, way back in the waters of Lake Bungunnia, there might have been mega-cod cruising the shallows searching for giant frogs, and whopping archerfish shooting down low-flying super bugs. While we have no direct fossil evidence of such creatures, the pattern of megafauna in terrestrial environments suggests aquatic megafauna likely existed as well.
The point is, we don’t know how many species have become extinct from the suite of fauna that swam about in Lake Bungunnia, but you could put money on the fact that everything native that’s getting around the Murray-Darling now has a skerrick of Bungunnian ancestry. This ancient lineage connects modern Murray-Darling fish to a time when Australia’s interior looked dramatically different.
Today’s Murray-Darling system supports a fascinating array of native fish species, though their numbers have declined dramatically from historical levels. The iconic Murray cod, Australia’s largest freshwater fish, once grew to enormous sizes exceeding 100 kilograms.
Golden perch, also called yellowbelly, represent another prized native species. These fish undertake remarkable spawning migrations, triggered by river flow patterns that have been disrupted by dams and irrigation.
The silver perch, catfish, and freshwater blackfish round out the major native species. Each occupies specific ecological niches within the river system.
Smaller species like Australian smelt, gudgeons, and hardyheads play crucial roles in the aquatic food web. Though often overlooked by anglers, these fish support larger predators and help maintain ecosystem balance.
Unfortunately, the Murray-Darling now also supports numerous introduced species. European carp dominate many waterways, comprising up to 80% of fish biomass in some areas.
Redfin perch, trout, and mosquitofish have also established populations. While some provide recreational fishing opportunities, they compete with native species and alter ecological dynamics.
Fishing the Murray has evolved from Aboriginal subsistence practices through European settlement to modern recreational angling. Each era has left its mark on fishing culture and technique.
Aboriginal peoples developed sophisticated fish traps and nets that harvested fish sustainably for thousands of years. Many of these traditional fishing sites remain culturally significant despite being submerged or altered by modern water management.
Early European settlers initially relied on the river’s fish as a protein source. Commercial fishing developed rapidly, with some operators catching tonnes of fish annually.
Modern recreational fishing focuses primarily on Murray cod and golden perch. Anglers use a variety of techniques from bank fishing with bait to sophisticated lure casting from boats.
Lure fishing for Murray cod has become particularly popular. Large diving lures that imitate swimming prey trigger aggressive strikes from these apex predators.
Night fishing produces excellent results, as Murray cod feed actively after dark. Many anglers swear by fishing the new moon periods when darkness is most complete.
The Murray-Darling Basin faces significant conservation challenges. Over-allocation of water for irrigation has reduced flows to ecologically damaging levels.
Native fish populations have crashed to less than 10% of pre-European levels. This decline stems from multiple factors including habitat loss, barriers to migration, and competition from introduced species.
Cold water pollution from bottom-release dams has altered temperature regimes that trigger spawning. Many native fish species require specific temperature cues that no longer occur naturally.
However, conservation efforts are showing promise. Fish ladders and bypass channels help native fish navigate around barriers. Artificial spawning habitat creates nursery areas for young fish.
The Native Fish Strategy aims to restore native fish populations to 60% of pre-European levels. This ambitious goal requires coordinated efforts across multiple states and water users.
Carp control programs show promise using new technologies. Daughterless carp, which produce only male offspring, could eventually crash carp populations without toxic chemicals.
River red gums define the Murray-Darling floodplains. These iconic trees can live for over 500 years and play crucial roles in river ecology.
When rivers flood, water spreads through red gum forests. Fish follow the floods, feeding on abundant insects and spawning in the inundated vegetation.
Golden perch lay their eggs in flooded red gum forests. The larvae drift downstream with receding floods, feeding on microscopic organisms.
Without regular flooding, red gums suffer water stress and die. Dead trees no longer provide habitat for birds, bats, and insects that depend on them.
Environmental water allocations aim to mimic natural flood patterns. Strategic releases provide the flooding that red gum ecosystems require to thrive.
The Murray-Darling holds deep cultural significance for Aboriginal peoples. Dreaming stories explain the river’s creation and the proper relationships between people and water.
European settlement added new layers of cultural meaning. The Murray became synonymous with paddle steamers, river trade, and frontier adventure.
Modern river culture blends recreation, agriculture, and conservation. Towns like Echuca celebrate their riverboat heritage while grappling with water scarcity.
Fishing tournaments bring communities together and support local economies. The catch-and-release ethic has taken hold as anglers recognize the importance of conservation.
River festivals celebrate the Murray’s cultural significance. These events strengthen community bonds and raise awareness about environmental challenges.
Managing the Murray-Darling involves balancing competing demands from four states. Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria, and South Australia each have different priorities and water needs.
The Murray-Darling Basin Authority attempts to coordinate management across state boundaries. This federal body faces constant pressure from agricultural, environmental, and urban water users.
Irrigation efficiency improvements help stretch limited water further. Lining channels, upgrading infrastructure, and precision irrigation reduce waste.
Water trading allows temporary or permanent transfers between users. This market-based approach theoretically allocates water to its highest-value uses.
Environmental water holders purchase water rights to provide flows for ecological purposes. These strategic releases aim to trigger fish breeding and maintain wetland health.
Climate change complicates all water management efforts. Reduced rainfall and higher evaporation rates mean less water available for all uses.
The Murray-Darling faces an uncertain future. Climate projections suggest continued drying across much of the basin.
Technological solutions offer some hope. Desalination plants could supplement Adelaide’s water supply, reducing pressure on river extractions.
Agricultural innovation may allow more production with less water. Drought-resistant crops and precision farming techniques continue improving.
Renewed focus on environmental health recognizes that ecosystem services provide economic value. Healthy rivers support recreation, tourism, and cultural benefits beyond agricultural production.
Indigenous knowledge and management practices are gaining recognition. Traditional burning, seasonal harvest restrictions, and holistic land management offer sustainable approaches.
The legends of Lake Murray encompass ancient geology, modern conservation challenges, and cultural significance that spans millennia. Understanding this complex system requires appreciating its deep history and uncertain future.
The Murray-Darling Basin represents far more than just Australia’s largest river system. It embodies the continent’s environmental challenges, cultural heritage, and economic imperatives.
From the ancient expanse of Lake Bungunnia to today’s over-allocated waterway, the Murray has shaped Australian life. Its fish carry genetic memories of that vast inland sea.
Conservation and sustainable management will determine whether future generations experience the Murray as a living ecosystem or a dried remnant. The choices made today echo across the centuries.
For anglers, the Murray-Darling offers world-class fishing opportunities alongside sobering conservation lessons. Every cast connects us to an ancient system that deserves our respect and protection.
The legends continue to unfold as scientists discover new insights, indigenous knowledge gains recognition, and communities work toward sustainable futures. The Murray’s story is far from finished.
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