There’s no season – and no licence necessary – for sea fishing, so you can go all year round if you want to. Just be sure to wrap up for the cold and take good waterproofs, along with stout boots with excellent grips, or waders with studs on the soles; this is important whether you’re fishing from the shore, the rocks or from a boat.
In fact, why not go the whole hog and invest in full trawlerman oilskins? You never know what the ocean’s going to throw at you. George Clooney sported a good look in the film The Perfect Storm, but that might be a bit over the top – especially if you’re clutching a Thermos behind a windbreak on the beach.
Although many sea fish will feed throughout the year, most are at their best in late summer and autumn, mainly because they’ve been feeding freely and are nice and fat. That said, there are specific times that are best for particular fish.
Winter is good for dab, flounder, whiting and cod; summer and autumn are best for bass, mackerel, dogfish and pollock; while spring offers your best chance of good fishing for pouting and plaice.
Avoid bright days; not only is there more chance that the fish can see you, but they’re also more visible themselves to airborne predators and, over thousands of years, even mackerel (infamous for their pinhead-sized brains and extraordinary stupidity) have worked out that this is not good for their health.
You should avoid strong winds of any description as they are likely to make casting erratic. If fishing from the beach, the best kind of wind is an offshore one which comes from behind you and blows towards the sea.
Unlike freshwater fishing, sea anglers also have to contend with tides. Knowing the basics will impress people who don’t. This is all you need to know:
• There’s a high tide twice a day and a low tide twice a day. Each day the time of these tides shifts forward by 40 minutes. Seaside local newspapers often carry tide tables, or you can get them from a local tackle shop or find them online.
• You may have heard that tides have something to do with the moon. That’s because as the moon orbits the Earth it exerts a gravitational pull. Although Earth won’t budge, water will, and this is what creates a high tide.
• Strong tides are called spring tides and occur when the moon’s gravitational pull is at its strongest. Weak tides are called neap tides and… you guessed it.
Tides are important for both fish and anglers, particularly if you’re fishing from the shore. Turning up saddled like a pack mule with loads of gear only to discover that it’s low tide and the sea is actually half a mile away over claggy sand is no fun; neither is it a good idea to set up camp when the tide is on the turn so you have to keep moving as it chases you back up the beach.
Tides are important for fish because they stir things up – everything from plankton to shellfish to crustaceans and little fish – pushing them this way and that. In addition, crabs and worms bury themselves in the sand at low tide and emerge as the tide comes in, bringing a lot of hungry fish with it.
If you find yourself on a sandy or a shingle beach, try fishing when the tide is coming in or going out, rather than when it’s high or low. If you’re fishing off the pier or harbour wall, fish just before, during and after high tide.
Selecting the right tackle keeps you in control of shifting tides. Start with corrosion-resistant braided line (20–30 lb) for the backbone, topped with a clear fluorocarbon leader to minimize spooking wary Spanish mackerel or snapper. Match spinning rods to target size: 7–9’ medium-heavy for shore, 6–7’ for boat work. Rig reliability matters—use a sliding dropper loop or fishfinder rig with a strong swivel and 2–4 oz sinker to hold bottom in current. Add quality snaps to swap lures quickly and keep a selection of hooks: wide-gap for soft baits, circle for live offerings. Keep spares labeled, and test drag before deploying. Staying rigged and ready minimizes downtime when the tide turns or a feeding window opens.
Seasonal shifts dictate your bait choices. In spring, chase striped bass and bluefish with lively bunker or chunk baits; pair with 12–16 oz pyramid sinkers on bottom rigs. Summer favors kingfish and bonito—cast metal jigs, chrome plugs, or topwater lures near structure; light spinning set-ups with 10–15 lb line help manage aerial strikes. Fall brings cooler water and stripers again; add swimbaits or eel imitations with stealthy fluorocarbon leaders. Winter draws tautog and porgy—use green crabs or clams on high-low rigs close to rocky structure with 1–3 oz sinkers for precise placement. Track baitfish schools via sonar or diligent scouting; matching hatch keeps bites consistent and increases seasonal success.
Location selection hinges on current, structure, and access. For shore anglers, look for jetties, piers, or rip channels where bait funnels into feeding zones—site a cast where waves break and probe with heavier sinkers to stay anchored. Rock fishing offers solid structure but demands non-slip boots, longer rods, and mindful casting angles to avoid snags; target tide changes when fish explore edges. In a boat, focus on sonar-identified reefs, wrecks, and drop-offs; drift with wind or anchor in clean water near bait schools. Always check local marine charts for submerged hazards and maintained channels. Each option benefits from understanding tide charts and swell direction, so lock in spots that pair structure with calm approach paths.
Mastering varied techniques keeps bites coming. For casting, load up with weighted plugs or bucktail jigs, aim just beyond breaking waves, and retrieve with pauses to mimic injured bait—ideal for shore-striking bass and bluefish. Drift fishing from a boat lets natural current present live baits (menhaden or squid) on a Carolina or high-low rig; anchor briefly near a weedline to let bait swim slowly. When boat fishing over structure, vertical jigging delivers great results: drop fast to bottom, then rip tight to trigger aggressive strikes from snapper or grouper. Blend electronics by watching a fish finder to detect suspended schools. Keep rod tip steady, adjust retrieves, and swap rigs quickly to match fish mood.
Weather dictates access and bite quality. Calm, overcast mornings often trigger surface activity—cool temperatures reduce light penetration, making predatory species bold near shore; match this with topwater or jerkbait retrieves. Windy days require heavier sinkers to keep rigs anchored but can also churn baitfish and attract stripers along choppy bars. Watch barometric pressure: steadily dropping pressure ahead of a front can boost feeding; rapid rises often shut bites down, so target transitions. Tidal pulls combine with wind direction—incoming tides push oxygenated water toward structure, increasing catches. Keep a reliable forecast app handy and adjust departure times if lightning threatens. Planning around weather trends not only improves success but keeps safety front of mind.
Staying safe maximizes every trip. From shore, wear a PFD when casting near high surf or jetty edges; rogue waves can knock you off balance. Check tide tables so you don’t get stranded on widening sandbars. On boats, inspect safety gear—life jackets, VHF radio, flares—and file a float plan before heading out. Keep a first-aid kit accessible and know hypothermia signs; wet decks or sudden weather calls for layered clothing and quick shelter. Maintain communication with shore contacts and keep a charged phone or handheld radio in a waterproof case. Lastly, respect local rules: some areas require licenses or seasonal closures. Prioritizing safety keeps trips worry-free and lets you focus on landing the next bite.
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